In the Patek Philippe 2020-2021 Rare Handcrafts watch collection, The 995/122J “Panda” pocket watch features wood marquetry, hand engraving, and hand-guilloché under transparent enamel (flinqué enamel). This unique gold piece pays tribute to the giant panda, one of the most illustrious inhabitants of China’s forests.

A Legacy of Artistic Heritage

Thierry Stern’s love for rare crafts is a passion that traces back to his childhood memories. His grandfather, Henri Stern, had the soul of an artist and held ancient crafts in high regard, with a particular appreciation for miniature jewelry painting, collecting many fine pieces. Henri Stern’s collections were filled with exquisite examples of these rare arts, from intricately painted miniatures to finely crafted enamel pieces. This profound appreciation for craftsmanship was passed down to Thierry’s father, Philippe Stern, who followed in his father’s footsteps by employing skilled craftsmen to continually extend and develop these crafts. Even if these techniques were no longer fashionable at the time, Philippe Stern was dedicated to preserving their legacy.

Thierry Stern’s childhood was spent in an atmosphere rich with artistic inspiration. He recalls a pivotal moment when, at the age of six or seven, he discovered some antique timepieces decorated with Blois enamel in a drawer. This discovery sparked a lifelong fascination. “This is what I want to do,” he told himself. He vividly remembers a pair of gold-plated perfume-spraying pocket watches, ingeniously crafted with enamel, engraving, and gemstone setting. These pieces, with their delicate artistry and intricate designs, fascinated him endlessly. Today, these timepieces are displayed in the Patek Philippe Museum, serving as a testament to the Stern family’s dedication to the preservation and celebration of rare crafts.

“Patek Philippe also shoulders the important mission of continuing and promoting these related crafts”
“Patek Philippe’s watchmakers are embodiments of creative dreams, not merely fulfilling some commercial plans but because they genuinely love the craft”

Continuing Tradition with Modern Fusion

To this day, Thierry Stern’s passion for rare crafts remains as strong as ever. While inheriting the long-standing tradition of Vallee de Joux watchmaking, Patek Philippe also shoulders the important mission of continuing and promoting these related crafts. However, preserving traditions also means advancing with the times, embracing challenges, and developing new crafts. Take wood marquetry as an example; this craft was traditionally used for decorating large objects, but Patek Philippe has miniaturized it, injecting new inspiration into the decoration of pocket watches or wristwatches. This adaptation not only preserves the craft but also allows it to evolve and stay relevant in modern times.

The preservation and development of rare crafts are not easy. Patek Philippe’s watchmakers are embodiments of creative dreams, not merely fulfilling some commercial plans but because they genuinely love the craft. Each piece they create is a labor of love, reflecting their dedication to both their art and their heritage. These craftsmen are true artists, who, with every stroke of their tools, bring to life the vision of beauty and excellence that Patek Philippe stands for.

The Perfect Artistry: Ref. 995/122J Panda Pocket Watch

A prime example of this dedication is the Ref. 995/122J “Panda” pocket watch, which is the flagship piece of Patek Philippe’s 2020-2021 Rare Handcrafts collection. This timepiece is a true reflection of Patek Philippe’s commitment to preserving and developing rare crafts. Whether it’s painting, enamel painting, or engraving crafts, the overall coordination of different materials and light and shadow effects are exemplary. The pocket watch employs multiple different crafts, skillfully integrating the exquisite skills of various master craftsmen, resulting in a piece that is not just a watch but a masterpiece.

The case back of the Ref. 995/122J features a lifelike panda design crafted with micro marquetry. This intricate design is composed of 384 parts, including 194 micro veneers made from 26 types of wood and 190 inlays. To make the details richer and more delicate, the marquetry craftsman first draws a scaled pattern of the panda according to the watch’s size. Then, even the smallest parts are meticulously crafted. The craftsman prepares small wood pieces of varying colors, textures, and grains like a painter preparing a palette. Stacking 10 pieces of the same type of wood, the craftsman uses a fine saw to cut out 10 identical pieces, selecting the one that best embodies the design’s beauty for marquetry. After completing the entire marquetry process, the craftsman fixes it onto a gold base, carefully polishes, and applies varnish to form a lustrous and smooth surface. The lively eyes and expressions make the panda lifelike; the varying shades of white fur create an indescribable texture and three-dimensional effect.

The Ref. 995/122J pocket watch, with a diameter of 45mm, hangs on a bamboo-shaped gold stand. The case back is decorated with a micro marquetry panda design. The dial features an intricate background created with engraved patterns, hand engraving, and green flinqué transparent enamel, harmonizing with the gold Breguet numerals, hour subdial, and bamboo-shaped hands.

The bezel and the outer edge of the case back are decorated with hand-engraved and polished bamboo leaf patterns, which look even more exquisite against the matte engraving. The dial integrates three rare crafts: the hand engraver carves bamboo stalks on the gold base; the mechanical engraver uses an ancient manual technique to carve fine and deep wave patterns between the bamboo designs; finally, the enameller applies traditional flinqué transparent enamel, adding suitable colors to this bamboo forest while keeping the underlying decorative patterns clearly visible.

The intricate decoration makes this unique pocket watch even more exquisite: the crown is set with a cabochon green tourmaline, and the watch loop for hanging the pocket watch is shaped like bamboo. The gold stand of the pocket watch also echoes the overall design, with the cabochon green tourmaline and the green marble base adding the finishing touches. In Thierry’s view, this cleverly designed stand and base, paired with the exquisite and unparalleled pocket watch, are a perfect match. This synergy between the stand and the watch itself represents the culmination of Patek Philippe’s dedication to craftsmanship and art, creating a piece that transcends mere functionality to become a true work of art.